Biz trip – Jakarta
최근 운좋게도 출장을 몇 차례 갈 일이 있었는데 첫 번째 목적지는 인도네시아 자카르타였다. 일 때문이라도 여행을 많이 하게 되길 늘 바래왔고, 아시아에서는 싱가폴 말고는 가 본 곳이 없어서 여행 가기 전 굉장히 설레었다.
Recently I’ve had lucky chances to go on business trips and the first destination was Jakarta, Indonesia. Since I’d always hoped to travel lots even for work and I’d never been to any Asian countries but Singapore, I was really excited ahead of the trip.
언젠가 외국어에 대한 이야기를 더 깊게 하겠지만, 이번 여행을 통해 또 한 번 외국어 능력의 힘을 느꼈다. 나와 동행한 팀 동료 엘리엣은 프랑스인이지만 10년 전에 인도네시아에서 일을 하면서 인도네시아어를 배웠다. 공항에서 나오자 마자 택시 기사와 수월하게 이야기 하는데 낯선 언어에 대한 생소함에 그녀를 향한 경외감이 더해졌다.
I’m thinking of further talking about foreign languages, but I’ve come to be convinced again how powerful a foreign language ability is. My colleague, Eliette, who accompanied me, is French but she learned Indonesian when she was working in Indonesia 10 years ago. As soon as we got out of the airport, she spoke fluently to a taxi driver. In addition to feeling unfamiliar to a strange language, I was awed by her.
스타벅스의 미덕 / A virtue of Starbucks 
첫 번째 미팅 예정 시간보다 일찍 도착하여 어디서 시간을 보낼까 하다가 가장 눈에 먼저 들어온 것이 스타벅스였다. 커피를 마시지 않는 사람으로서 커피의 맛과 품질에 대한 논의는 접어두더라도 나는 스타벅스가 도심 곳곳을 장악하는 것을 좋아하지 않아 스타벅스를 싫어한다고 말한다. 하지만 위와 같은 상황에서 가장 손쉬운 선택이 스타벅스라는 것을 깨달았다. 세계 어느 스타벅스 지점을 가더라도 무엇을 파는지, 그리고 어떻게 주문하면 되는지 알기 때문에 안심이 되는 것이다. 낯선 곳에 가면 누구나 익숙하지 않은 것을 모험해 보고 싶지만 때로는 마음의 긴장을 풀고 익숙한 것에 몸을 맡기고 싶기도 하다. 스타벅스가 미국 밖에서 성공한 이유 중 하나가 이국적인 분위기를 체험할 수 있는 장소로 선전을 한 것이라고 어디선가 들었지만, 성숙기를 지나면서 이제는 역으로 익숙함을 제공하는 것이 스타벅스 매출의 주 요인이 된 것 같다.
As we arrived at the first meeting place earlier than on time, we were looking for a place to spend time before the meeting. And it was Starbucks that caught our attention immediately. As a non-coffee drinker, putting aside the taste and quality of its coffee, I don’t like its way of business dominating every corner of a city and I say I dislike Starbucks. However, in a situation like us above, I realised the easiest option is going to Starbucks. At any branch in the world, you know what they sell and how to order so it makes you at ease. When you go to a strange place, it’s natural to try some adventure but sometimes you also want to release the tension and leave yourself to things familiar. I heard one of reasons for Starbucks’ success outside the US was due to its promotion that Starbucks serves as a place where you can experience an exotic atmosphere. As it proceeds to a mature period, however, it seems to be a main cause to its revenue that Starbucks now in reverse provides a familiar feeling.
혼돈 속의 질서 / Order in the Mess 
자카르타에 간다고 트위터 메시지를 남겼을 때 한 온라인 친구가 “(자카르타에서)조심해. 거기 완전 난리법석인 곳이야. (Be careful. JKT is a crazy city.)”라고 메시지를 보냈다. 이 친구의 조언은 도로에 들어서자 마자 증명이 됐다. 엄청난 수의 오토바이들과 그들의 무질서한 운행, 차선 구분과 보행자용 신호등이 거의 없는 도로, 그리고 엄청난 소음. 하지만 이 풍경과 겹쳐지는 일반인들을 계속 보고 있자니 이렇게 난리법석 속에도 그들 나름대로의 질서가 있는 듯 했다. 그리고 그것이 그들에게는 크게 불편해보이지 않았다.
When I twitted in my Twitter that I was going to Jakarta, one of my online friends said “Be careful. JKT is a crazy city.” His advice proved true once our taxi got on the road. A number of motorbikes and their disordered driving, car roads where there are almost no traffic lanes and traffic lights for pedestrians, and huge noise. However, constantly looking at general public that overlapped with these scenes on the streets, it seemed like they have their own order in such a mess. And it didn’t look much uncomfortable to them.
내가 이제까지 살거나 여행했던 곳은 대부분이 유럽 국가였고, 내가 태어나 자란 한국은 개발도상국에서 선진국으로 가는 과도기에 있다 (아직까지 많은 부분이 개도국 수준에 있다고 생각하지만). 그래서 소위 개도국에 가 본 것은 인도네시아가 처음이었다. 하지만 자카르타에 있으면서 선진국과 개도국의 차이란 과연 무엇인가 생각을 해보았다. 지금 선진국이라는 나라들은 한 때 식민 통치를 통해 지금의 개도국으로부터 천연자원, 각종 물자, 인력 등을 착취하여 그들의 경제 성장을 일궜고 지금의 자리에 있는 것이다. 식민 시기를 거치지 않고 개도국들이 자기들 고유의 속도대로 발전을 했다 하더라도 지금의 결과와 많이 다르지 않았을 수도 있다. 하지만 역사는 어쨌든 열강들의 식민 통치 시기를 거쳤고 선진국과 후진국이라는 구분을 낳았지만, 이것이 단순히 국내총생산이나 1인당 국민 소득으로 결정되는 것은 아니라는 생각이 들었다. 치안 및 삶의 질에 있어서도 마찬가지다. 단순히 통계율을 가지고 한 나라의 발전도를 정의하는 것은 어려운 것이다.
Most of the places of my overseas residence and trip were European countries, and Korea, where I was born and raised, is in a transitional period from a developing to developed country – though I think many parts of its society still remains at standards of a developing country. Therefore, Indonesia was the first so-called developing country I’d been to. While staying in Jakarta, however, I came to think about the difference between developed and developing countries. Countries considered developing ones have been led to its current status by exploiting natural and human resources, and goods from developed countries through colonization. Even if the developing countries were not put under colonial rules and developed themselves at their own phase, the result would not be so much different from the way they are now. Anyhow, history went through a colonial age and it resulted in a division between developed and developing countries. But I thought the division is not made simply by GDP or GNI per capita. It is the same for public security and quality of life. It is difficult to decide the extent of a country’s development according to statistical rates.
무지를 삼가하겠다고 하더니… / I said I was going to try to eschew ignorance… 
이 블로그의 이름인 ‘코즈모폴리탄’ 그리고 그렇게 정한 이유 중 하나로 ‘무지와 편견을 삼가하겠다’고 페이지 상단과 About 페이지에 써놨는데, 이 의지를 무색하게 만드는 일이 있었다. 호텔에 체크인한 후 저녁을 먹기 위해 나가면서 옷을 갈아입었는데 사진에서 보다 시피 끈나시를 입고 나갔다. 식당을 찾기 위해 호텔 근처 도로를 걸었는데 각종 노점상 및 노천 식당, 그리고 그 곳에 있던 사람들 사이를 지나다녔다. 어느 정도 걸었을 즈음 엘리엣이 나에게 말하길, “사람들이 다 너 쳐다본다.” 하는 것이다. 나도 그 시선들을 느꼈는데 내가 인도네시아 사람처럼 안 생겨서 그런 줄 알았다. 하지만 진짜 이유는 정작 다른 데 있었다. 엘리엣이 이어서 말했다. “왜 그런 줄 알아? 회교 국가에서 너처럼 어깨를 훤히 드러내는 옷을 입는 사람이 없기 때문이야.” 그들은 내 ‘얼굴’이 아니라 내 ‘어깨’를 보고 있었던 거였다. 출장 준비하느라 인도네시아에 대한 공부를 따로 하지는 않았지만 이런 기본도 몰랐다는 것이 부끄러웠다. 무지가 용서될 수도 있지만 그것이 무례가 될 수 있음을 절실히 깨달았다.
I gave this blog a title ‘cos(z)mopolitan’ and, as one of the reasons for the title, I wrote on the head and about page that I try to eschew ignorance. But in Jakarta I did something that made myself ashamed. After check-in at hotel, we went out for dinner and I changed my clothes to a sleeveless top as seen in the photo. We were walking on streets nearby the hotel to look for a restaurant, passing by numerous street stalls and restaurants, and people. After we walked for a while, Eliette told me, “People are all staring at you.” I also sensed their looking at me but thought it was because of my non-Indonesian appearance. But the real reason was totally different. Eliette said, “You know why? It’s because there is no one who shows her bare shoulders in this Muslim country.” They were in fact staring at my ‘shoulders’, not my ‘face’. Because of busy preparation for the business trip, I didn’t have time to study at all about Indonesia but I felt ashamed that I wasn’t aware of this very basic fact. Ignorance can be forgiven but it can be also rude.
늘 유럽에서 오래 살기를 원했고 지금도 원하고 있다. 지금 직장에 일하는 것이 결정됐을 때 너무나 행복했지만 유럽에서 살지 못하게 되는 것이 내심 안타깝기도 했다. 하지만 그 당시 마음 먹기를, 지금까지 한국과 유럽, 그것도 서유럽에서만 살았으니 아시아의 다른 국가에서 사는 것이 균형을 맞추는 데에 도움이 되겠다는 것이었다. 그리고 동남아 지역에 대해 배울 수 있는 좋은 계기도 될 것이고. 정말이지, 싱가폴에 있으면서 좋은 점 중 하나가 지역에 대한 이해가 넓어진다는 점이다. 가장 첫 번째로 이 곳의 지리를 더 알게 되었고, 자카르타 출장과 같은 경험을 하면서 관심과 이해를 더해가고 있으니 말이다.
I always wanted to live longer in Europe and I still do. I was really happy when it was confirmed that I got my current job, but I also felt sorry about that I wouldn’t be able to live in Europe for the time being. But, I convinced myself at the time that, as I’d lived only in Korea and Europe, even only Western Europe, it would be helpful to make balance if I live in another country in Asia. And it would also be a good opportunity to learn Southeast Asia. Indeed, one of good things about living in Singapore is broadening my understanding of this region. Above all, I came to better understand its geography and increase my interest and knowledge through an experience like a business trip to Jakarta.
더 많은 사진은 이 곳에 / More photos from Jakarta, May 2009
구글지도에 표시한 주요 장소 / Meeting and important places marked on Google maps: Business trips

dda:
얘기는 했지요… 야카르타는 엉망하고 난리라고… ^_^
Jakarta is not my favourite place to go, neither on biz trip or for pleasure. The first time or two I was staying at a hotel where I knew the GM (he used to be Assistant GM in the hotel in Seoul where I had an office), so he had left instructions for the staff, and they took good care of me…
그런데… 밖에 나가면… 에휴! 교통도 오염도 방콕보다 심하고 길거리에서 구걸하거나 걍 가만히 있는 사람 넘 먾라서… 인도 수준이 아니지만, 그래도…
About the exposed shoulders. What your friend says is not the whole story. I’ve seen women exposing their shoulders, mostly in restaurants and hotels and the like, and most were Chinese-Indonesian. But when they go out, they cover their shoulders. You’re Korean, so you *look* Chinese to them – many Koreans were victims of this confusion during the last riots against Chinese. So they might have thought you were a Chinese who was flaunting the rules. However, you’re neither a local citizen, nor a Muslim. They don’t apply to you – and they shouldn’t try to enforce them on you. Nothing to be ashamed of…
인니사람들이 화교를 되게 싫어해요. “짱깨들이 인니를 이용해서 돈을 너무 많이 번다고” 해서 중국으로 내보내야 한다고… 50년대에 수많은 화교들이 추방됐다. 오늘 인니에 남아있는 화교들이 인니의 경제를 통제하고있다…
I’ve been in the two Muslim countries in the region that have large Chinese communities, Malaysia and Indonesia, and there are so many differences between the two countries. Despite all its faults, Malaysia is certainly a more peaceful place, and a more reasonable one…
5 July 2009, 8:25 pmSunkyoung:
dda도 영어와 한국어를 섞어서 썼네요. ^-^ 인도네시아에 대해서 설명해줘서 고마워요.
Another friend of mine also told me that I don’t need to be ashamed of exposing my shoulders as I’m not a local. I think both of you are right but I wish I at least knew their generally accepted idea thus decided the extent of respect.
인도네시아 내 화교를 표적으로 삼아 일어난 폭동에 대해서 같이 간 동료로부터 들었어요. 그 당시 이 친구가 자카르타에 있었는데 인니들의 걷잡을 수 없는 분노와 무자비함에 많이 놀랬었대요.
I have close Indonesian and Malaysian friends and both of their grandparents are from China. I’m curious to ask them how they see their communities and their interactions with the native in their respective countries.
8 July 2009, 8:07 pmDalicia:
Indonesian is not a hard language to learn. I don’t seem to mingle very well with Americans and Europeans. Being in Asia suits me a lot!!
21 July 2009, 5:59 amOwen:
Hi,
I just wanted to give you some grammar help:
“Countries considered developing ones have been led to its current status by exploiting natural and human resources, and goods from developed countries through colonization.”
The correct way to say this sentence is using a passive as below:
“Countries considered ‘developing’ are often that way because they have suffered over the years at the hands of developed countries who ruthlessly exploited their natural and human resources during colonization.”
I personally do not agree with the below statement:
“Even if the developing countries were not put under colonial rules and developed themselves at their own phase, the result would not be so much different from the way they are now.”
Development cannot be separated from the Political situation in which it exists. Countries like Indonesia have suffered form colonialism. In its basic form, colonialism means “unequal trade”. If the military might of Europe had not been able to force unequal trade and keep colonial nations poor, we might all be speaking Indonesian, Hindu, or another developing world language. Developing Nations had (and still have) immense natural resources. If they had been able to utilize these for their own benefit rather than other nations they might all be driving mercedes these days.
Imagine if the Iraq government had been able to sell it’s oil and distribute the profits to its people in the form of infrastructure and low taxes for the last 100 years they would all be much wealthier than the USA or Europeans combined.
So I do not think it is possible to say that developing nations were always destined to be like that. They were forced into that state and could well have prospered under different circumstances.
21 July 2009, 3:44 pmSunkyoung:
Dalicia – As for Indonesian, that’s what everyone speaking Indonesian says and also how it sounds. As I’ve only lived in Korea and Western Europe, and am currently living in Singapore, I think I still have to wait to decide which continent suits me most. But with people, for me it depends on individual’s characters. General conceptions about races have not always matched what they really are.
Owen – Thanks very much for your long comment. It’s my grammatical mistake, I’ll re-write the phrase.
26 July 2009, 10:41 pmRegarding your disagreement, what you wrote is actually what I thought and wished during my visit to Jakarta, but I admit my writing didn’t very well convey my intention. I do not agree either that developing countries are ‘destined’ to remain developing and they simply cannot be. What I meant was that, because not all the countries can be at the same stage of development, with or without colonialism, there would always be less developed countries.